So You Want to Leave The U.S.? Here’s How It Turned Out For This Couple
Social media is ripe with Americans threatening to leave the United States. The talk of exodus grew louder in the days leading up to the Presidential Election and now it’s grown louder once again — this time from the right. More Americans than ever have wanted to leave the states during this past administration, according to Gallup’s 2019 World Poll. Roughly 16% said they would like to move permanently to another country in both 2017 and 2018, which is a significant jump compared to the average levels during the Bush (11%) and Obama Administrations (10%). In particular, 40% of women under 30 say they would like to leave the U.S. That being said, this is not a political piece, but rather, a chance to say that if moving to another country has crossed your mind, you are far from alone.
We had the chance to talk to Marcia Scaggs, an American expat who moved with her husband Larry to Termini Imerese, an ancient town in the Sicilian region of Italy. There, they hoped to open a new chapter of their lives after a series of tragic events.
Starting Fresh in Sicily
Marcia spent much of her career working for BBDO and HOPE Worldwide, where she excelled in marketing, visual communications, and writing. Even as she and Larry continued their work, they had always shared an adventurous spirit that saw them ride motorcycles up and down the east coast and live on a boat for ten years, during which they sailed far and wide. It was boating that actually led them to their future country of residence.
“We had boating friends that came over here because their nephew’s wife heard there was cheap real estate. They ended up buying real estate there because it’s very easy to do,” says Marcia. “There are two ways of living in Italy. You can stay for 3 months twice per year or you can become a resident. If you want, you can buy multiple houses, but to own a car here, you have to be a resident. Traveling with a passport isn’t enough.”
The allure of elsewhere has become particularly strong among Americans who cite health care as a major concern. While the United States has plenty to love, the dread of bankruptcy or medical emergencies that naturally arise is not quite the same in many other developed nations that have universal health care. That’s part of the reason why Google saw a spike in searches for “How to apply for Canadian citizenship.” However, Canada is far from the only place U.S. citizens are flocking to. An estimated 9 million American expats live overseas, according to 2019 State Department data.
“Becoming a resident has been an interesting process. We felt okay about buying because there was an English Italian-speaking real estate agent. The first step is going for your permesso di giorni. You fill out the forms and applications. Getting the visa for the 1-year residence was more challenging than the other paperwork. You also have to give up your passport for 120 days. We worked with the consulate in Miami,” says Marcia. “To gain residence here, you have to show that you have a household income of more than $37,000 per year. We do it through our social security. There are also several different types of residencies. An American has to be here for ten years before applying for citizenship.”
Expectation of Living in Italy Versus The Reality
Over the past few years, a number of articles have circulated social media with headlines claiming an individual can purchase a home in Italy for one euro. While that’s not entirely true, the Scagg’s personal experience with property ownership in Italy is compelling.
“The one euro houses are inland. They’re usually country home fixer-uppers; sometimes just a wall and a foundation. I’ve heard of people doing well with them and I’ve also heard the other side of it. You need to be prepared in those smaller towns to speak the language. If you’re going to trust someone to fix it up, then go for it, but it can be complicated with the lease. Part of the reason we were drawn to Caccamo was because of the real estate agent we had at Sicily Property Brokers. They got us through the buying process and brought a team for renovations. Plus, they sent us pictures through WhatsApp, which allowed us to manage renovations from abroad. I wouldn’t normally recommend that because it obviously requires a deep level of trust, but it worked well for us. Our property was livable within about six months,” says Marcia. “The internet is excellent here and it’s cheap. It’s about $130 a year for basic wifi and we can stream movies with it. The premium package is only $50 more.”
Termini Imerese has been occupied since prehistoric times and features prominent Roman ruins, such as its famous aqueduct bridge and amphitheater.
“It’s been conquered by so many civilizations. It’s such a short distance between Tunisia and Sicily, so there’s even a major African influence. Sicily didn’t really want to be a part of Italy; it wanted to be its own country. They speak a dialect of Italian that’s its own language. The older people speak a Sicilian dialect and then there’s Caccamese, which is like their equivalent of the Cajun dialect. There are also more Greek ruins in Sicily than there are in Greece,” says Marcia. “I’ve never met people as warm and nice to strangers as I have here. It’s a culture of food and the landscapes are obviously stunning. The water is that beautiful Mediterranean blue you see in pictures. We have hills and mountains and we’re growing two almond trees, 25 olive trees, black and white fig trees, 4 lemon trees, loquats, 3 or 4 plum trees, 3 pear trees, Sicilian apples, and grapes. It feels like we’re living in the Garden of Eden.
Marcia’s Recommended Sicilian Sites:
Mount Etna
Agrigento (The Valley of The Temples)
Caccamo
Terramina
Sicilian Islands (Stromboli and others)
Corleone (for mafia enthusiasts)
Inna (Norma town)
Trapani (salt flats)
Saracusa (water so clear boats appear to float on air)
An Average Day in Sicily
“We go into town and stop by the cafe for a cappuccino and cornetti con crema and we pick up the mail we have delivered there. After that we go to the market in Termini, which has everything from fabrics to produce. Our next door neighbors are from Scotland and they like motorcycles, so we ride with them and often grab lunch at Cimmina, where they bring course after course. During the summer, most stores close from 12:30 to 4 o’clock. People rest, have a glass of wine and then go back to work at 4 in the afternoon,” says Marcia. “Dinner starts at 7:30. Don’t show up to a restaurant before then, but the beautiful thing is that even if you come at 7:30, the table is yours till midnight. Most places stay open late as they have customers. Family is also very important in Sicily, so the people bring their children with them to restaurants even late at night.
Larry and Marcia are both retired, so their average day isn’t necessarily representative of what someone’s in their prime earning years might look like, but it does provide some interesting insights into the culture.
“We have a friend here from Napa Valley. There are a lot of British citizens, not as many Americans, but the number of Americans is growing. On a day-to-day, the level of Italian you need depends on what city and region you’re in. Fortunately, English is taught in schools and for the most part, if they see you’re trying to communicate in broken Italian, they’ll be very receptive and they’ll try to speak English.
Final Verdict
“If you’re considering moving to Italy, I think it depends on your sense of adventure. We’d recommend it for a couple like us. You’ve got one life and it’s a great opportunity to understand more of the world. A lot of people are stuck behind a television set,” says Marcia. “Research the area you’re going to and make sure it fits what you’re looking for. Catania for instance, is more modern thinking, more industrial. Palermo is more traditional Sicilian. I see Sicily as a place where expats can unwind, relax, and re-energize their creative soul. All Italians are artistic. For them, everything is form over function.”
